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new orleans road trip 2003.06

"have you been to new orleans?" "no, have you?" "no. well then let's drive there next week!" our road trip started something like that. we both wanted to go there, prices for hotels and b&b's were cheap because it was june (read: hot, humid, non-tourist season), and we wanted to travel by automobile, so it was an inexpensive and easy trip.

we got up at 3 in the morning, packed the car and headed out. i started the drive... and drove us all the way straight through to graceland! only made two stops at gas stations to fuel up and get coffee & tea. we did not actually visit the king's former home, but we drove by it and saw all the crowds lined up to enter the gated residence and embark on an afternoon with the ghost of elvis. we however wanted to get to louisiana by dinner. so we fueled up again and with a lack of good restaurants in the area, coupled with hungry appetites, ended up at burger king for lunch. after all, we were in the "king's" neighbourhood, it only seemed fitting.

from there, chad took over to drive the second half of the 13 hour drive. the scenery left a lot of be desired... flat and uninteresting for the most part. we talked a lot, and i did crossword puzzles and tried to stump chad with the questions. that part of the drive flew by for me. next thing i knew, the scenery changed and everything looked swampy & greener in a wet dreamy sort of way, what i expected louisiana to be like. we were close to our destination when we passed by a rest stop. now i could have waited, but at the last minute told chad to pull in there. we stopped and checked out the information center and then it started to rain. hopped back into the car and merged onto the highway. up ahead, traffic was stalled. a major accident involving 5 vehicles... cars in the ditch, turned upside down. luckily we stopped off at the rest stop and lingered a bit... by doing so we avoided possibly being one of those 5 cars. on through the rain we drove into the city. the sun started to come out, and the skyline looked so foreign to me. i had never seen the new orleans skyline before, not even in pictures that i was ever aware of. before long, we were off the highway and driving through the outskirts of the french quarter navigating our way to the marigny district, where our b&b was awaiting us.

once there we were greeted by one of our hosts, chris, who informed us that he saved a parking spot for us right out front! street parking is a little tough in the neighbourhood, and we got a prime spot right outside the front door! this b&b was awesome! a gorgeous backyard patio, complete kitchen, dining room, and our bedroom - while small - was perfect. we had our own bathroom (not having to share like at some bed & breakfasts) and had ralph lauren towels just like we have at home! the ceilings were high, hardwood floors underfoot and big french doors. two cats- laverne and shirley - lived outside and it really felt like we were welcomed into an old friend's home. they gave us a tip to try santa fe, a mexican-creole restaurant across the street, one of their haunts. hungry from the long drive, we changed and walked across the street. it was prime dinner time, and a friday night, so we had a little wait. surprisingly, they whisked us away to the bar upstairs. it felt like we were guests in someone's home, the restaurant is in an old house and has a quaint, southern feel. that is where we had the strongest margaritas ever. they were so good. the air was sticky, sweet and hot... the air conditioning was meek upstairs, but the margaritas made all of that fade away. it felt so good to wake up, hop in the car, and be in new orleans all in time for dinner. a little while later we were taken downstairs where we had the best meal. surprisingly the menu was very eclectic, sure it was mexi-creole but with a french flair. how can you go wrong with that? i remember looking across the table at chad, having the best meal ever, with the best margarita ever, in a new town, on a new adventure and i felt so happy and content. i wanted to take that memory and bottle it up and take it home with me. that moment was better than any photograph or any souvenir. i can't accurately describe that moment into words that would do it justice, but that moment i just felt so happy and comfortable there in the night. after dinner, we planned on heading out to a local jazz club, but only made it across the street- back to our b&b. we were just stopping in to use the restroom i said, but instead ended up falling on the bed and off to sleep as soon as we walked in the room. the day had been long, and we needed to rest up for the weekend ahead.

the next morning, the sun came into our window and i woke up to faint sounds outside our door. the other guests were up having breakfast. realizing that we only had 41 hours total in new orleans, and we already had spent 15, half of them sleeping, i was in a momentary panic. we only had 26 hours left to explore. our plan for this trip was to leave on a friday and be back sometime sunday so we would be home in time to go to work on monday. really a good plan if you ask me. i wouldn't want to spend my weekend any way else. carpe diem- seize the day. got to make the most out of every moment.

the day is a blur of random, happy thoughts and visuals. we first had coffee & pastries with our host larry. chris & larry make such a cute couple and were a dynamic duo running the b&b so smoothly. out into the day, we walked west into town. firstly i ordered a beer at an outdoor coffee stand at 8:30 in the morning. not because i wanted to really drink, but more so i wanted to walk around town drinking a beer for breakfast just because i could. just because it is allowed and it was a funny feeling. we went to the audubon aquarium of the americas and spent the morning with sea creatures. an excellent aquarium exhibit. sat on the mississippi and watched the boats leaving. then went on to do a little shopping and wandering around town.

walked into the downtown business district, to the french quarter and back again. after having lunch at a little deli with great watermelon lemonade in mason jars, we stopped at a small wine bar for an afternoon cocktail. the bartender was sweet and kind and led us in the right direction of the streetcar. we hopped on and took a ride up to the garden district. the streetcar rides right down the middle of the road in a narrow strip of grass... trees line both sides of the street perfectly where gorgeous homes are nestled in rows. we grabbed some coffee at a nearby bookshop and headed off to view the above ground cemeteries, and all the old homes. overhearing a nearby walking tour guide, found out that we were standing in front of the home of author ann rice. the tree out front is what got my attention, old and uprooted with moss growing on its knobby roots. it was the most perfect tree. the picture in the photo album above does not do it justice. the homes had so much character and history to them. i would love to live in one... except for the climate. and the location. if i could move one of those houses someplace else i'd be thrilled. but then it wouldn't have the same southern charm if it were not in the south. but it is a nice thought.
(cont. in next column)


sunberst> travelogue> on holiday> new orleans

new orleans photo album (23 photographs)
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links to related things we like

faubourg marigny - "our" little neighbourhood away from home.
praline connection - get your soul food here.
burbocam - live web cam of bourbon street.
santa fe - our favorite restaurant! go upstairs and have a margarita while you wait for a table.
parkview marigny - chris & larry will take good care of you in their townhouse!
chicory - learn about what chicory is (its leaves are endive!) and how it came to be a popular drink of this area.
audubon aquarium - great aquarium with beautiful seahorses & jellies! jellies are such sensual creatures!
sweet pea on chartres - girlie store that i like.
st. charles line - take the vintage streetcar from the business district to the garden district.

(cont. from the previous column)
lizards scurried across fences, the afternoon sun filtered through the canopy of treetops. it was a wonderful afternoon stroll. of course our visit wouldn't be complete without a walk past belfort mansion, the former home of the real world cast. the black lettering was removed, but you could still see the dirty shadows of where the words once were. and the yard was overgrown, a falling chain fence, a sad collapsing front porch. it looked disheveled and abandoned except for the two ups packages on the front stoop.

back on the streetcar, we rode back to the business downtowny area and then walked on to the french quarter. we walked all the way up bourbon street until a little courtyard bar caught our eye. spend the early evening there sipping a few cocktails (3 for the price of 1!) and watched the "mc" of the bar make people jump through hoops before they entered. actually he had a hoola hoop and a microphone and had potential customers do a little hip action before entering. thankfully he was not at the door when we entered, so i spared everyone my hoola hooping talents. around dinner, we walked back to our b&b to get showered and ready for the night. stopped at the praline connection for a little gumbo, and then on to bourbon street. bourbon street was crowded, people hanging off balconies, beads, and it wasn't even mardi gras. just a normal, average, june evening. it was hot out. little barstands offered up bright blue hurricanes in plastic glasses with straws. the crowds in the streets were a mix of loud young college kids and middle-aged tourists with fanny packs. video camera were set up in the streets, perhaps to catch a little flashing action from those trying for beads. we had pizza & drinks and just wandered around the hot streets absorbing the culture that is bourbon street. old gas lanterns hung off the buildings, music sounded from every direction. eventually we collapsed in our comfy bed and feel asleep to the memories of the day.

in the morning we had our last breakfast and met two girls from sweden. they were our age, and in the states on a work permit to work at florida's disney world in the world showplace pavillion representing their sweden. they were trying to see as much of the u.s. as possible while in our country, and new orleans was on their list of stops. we wanted to leave town by noon, so had a lot to squeeze in. went to the french market and got braided garlic and goodies to take back home- creole mustards, olive salad for muffalettas, coffee and hot sauce. then had to take the obligatory trip over to cafe dumonde for coffee & beignets. boy are those as good as everyone says. hot, sticky, powdery goodness. walked around town one more time trying to store everything away in my mind... all the cracks in the sidewalks, the texture of the buildings, the way the trees looked so green and seemed to drip with moisture & charm.

eventually, regretfully, we packed up the car and headed back on the road home. not much to say about the ride home. we talked lots of our weekend adventure, took turns sleeping, and somehow made it back around midnight. this road trip was a great experience for us. although short in length, it was sweet in its duration. you know how the saying goes...


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